On the way to our last hike, I mentioned the joy of experiencing EDSA. This time we enjoyed it at rush hour on a Friday night – which was exhausting in itself – before finally making it to a well-known fast food joint, that was to be the meeting place for our hiking group. I was grimly worrying about how I would survive three days of mountains, strung across three provinces (Benguet, Ilocos Sur, and La Union ). I have to say it was a mixed bag of results over the whole walk but victory was assured for all of us, mainly because we were awesome, and me least of all. Throughout our collective struggles there was much camaraderie and laughter and I wouldn’t swap any of it for anything, including a big pile of first editions.
Getting only half an hour’s sleep on the journey to our destination didn’t bode well, although a breakfast of chicken curry did help balance this out. The view once we stopped however was something to gladden any heart. The beauty of being surrounded by mountains with only the odd local and fellow group of hikers to greet made for an exciting feeling of alone in the wilderness. A vast sea of greenery and overlapping peaks spread far into the distance on all sides.
Once we had limbered up, we set off and it felt great to walk and breathe in the clean air, unsurprisingly we took many, many photographs. I took more on this day than any other day for reasons which will become clear as you read through each day’s adventures. A few of my fellow hikers have kindly allowed me to show their photos here which are a lot better than my efforts.
The bridge looked fun but as I approached and looked down, the usual slatting problem was in evidence. It doesn’t fill the walker with confidence seeing this and realising it is the first and easiest obstacle you will come across. It’s part of the adventure though and wouldn’t be the last time we would encounter such a bridge.
One of things I love about the travels up in this region (for we were only around about 120km from where we last hiked ) is marvelling at the road building and how challenging it must have been to get here and complete it, not to mention plan it. Once again rice terraces were in abundance and as made our first ascent we left them far below as we rose to a spectacular view of the surrounding area and every so often let out a big woop.
I was surprised with how easy I was finding the walk, I felt strong and enjoyed the feeling of pushing upwards and seeing that we were really moving onwards and upwards. We did pay an extra fee for a porter service and so was relieved of my tent but the bag was heavy enough still. The porters were impressive, carrying a lot of heavy stuff and pushing ahead at pace and sure of foot. In fact on the last day they got to enjoy a few beers at the finish line whilst we toiled further back down the trail.
After a long winding descent, the weather became more atmospheric, with a rolling fog and a looming cliff face obscuring the sun. It felt like a totally different place from the other side of the mountain. The sparse houses were shocking in their appearance when they did pop up and at one point we passed a family crypt which had coffins left under an overhanging rock and fenced off. The immediacy of these boxes and the knowledge of what they contained was pretty sobering.
Thinking on that for a while, it took time to notice that the legs were becoming a bit sore as we came to the last real test of the day, the steep cliffs which had steps cut into them but not always hand rails. Nothing really felt dangerous as it was all firm and dry but the mind always wanders to the ‘what if’. we all ended up coming together for a bit of mutual back slapping and also unexpectedly an arty photos shoot thanks to the fog clearing, with our very own fairy Queen.
Arriving at the campsite an hour later and thoroughly exhausted, there was a bit of excitement at the the water pipe – which is used for getting drinking water (tap water is a lot safer in the provinces) and also to allow clean water for washing for – when an innocent passerby caught me having a quick shower. A great day all in all (except for that last bit) and as the stars were on show in good number, it was a pleasant celestial accompaniment to our much-needed sleep.
The suffering would begin on day two, for those of you disappointed by the lack of it so far. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world, which is the predictable thing to say after the fact but it really was good to be challenged.
Stunning photos, Ste J! Not sure I’d make it across that bridge…unless I were to crawl. 🙂 Thanks for sharing this amazing experience.
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Funny you should mention that as there is a more epic version coming up on the last day haha. It helped being quite a low bridge but that joining leaves a lot to be desired. It’s nice of both Ryan and Louie to allow me to post them up, they do the area a lot more justice than most of my shots haha.
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I feel short of breath just reading this – especially that bridge! What an incredible experience.
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It really was, so soon after the great landscapes of last week. If you feel short of breath with this one, you may need an inhaler for the next one.
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thanks for the warning!
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I would have run back crying at the first bridge! Give me a proper road to run along and I’ll run along it forever … terrifying macrame bridges not so much.
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Most bridges were really small but with ones like that – and there were a few – they did rock quite a bit if two or more people were walking on it.
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This probably isn’t the time to mention this, however, I will…. hahaaa…
You should think about writing and publishing! I’m not a reader, as such, I find most books hard going. But, your style is infectious; I want to continue to read, which doesn’t happen often!
That said; I found myself enjoying this part of the journey along with you. I really like that you are ‘honest’ in your ups and downs; I sense sincerity and true feelings. So, once again, Ste J, I look forward to your next instalment. Something tells me I’m going to enjoy it… 🙂
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OOo thank you for the compliments, perhaps an adventure I could write about would be worth looking into. I am glad to get you reading, I will be starting day two soon which will be, by necessity, more word driven. I will seriously consider looking into journeys I can undertake and write about, that would be really fun to do.
When I ever have a bad experience, it never becomes too bad because I always imagine how much you wonderful readers will enjoy reading about it and it makes even misadventures fun.
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“makes even misadventures fun.”
Hahahaaa… Great attitude!
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Sometimes it’s so exhausting it’s either laugh at the experience or sit down and give up.
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Never say die…!!!
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Hey Ste J. I love reading about your adventures – I’d love to go myself one day. Keep the updates coming – it takes us away from our drab, overcast, British lives, if only for a few moments. Enjoy! x
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Jen! Thanks for reading, I have a lot more to add, it’s finding the time at the moment but I have some more varied adventures coming over the next few months. I would happily swap a few degrees with you right about now, if it were possible.
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Hi, Ste J! Wow, those shots are terrific! And when it comes to the bridges made of apparent cobwebs, better you than I! The faerie queen looks a little overdressed for hiking—I assume she was either already there in costume or had a quick change before appearing. Lovely outfit, though, and nice shot. The true spirit of the hike.
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They are sturdy enough, they just move a lot with people on them. Thankfully there was a lack of wind which kept our trip trouble free, at least in that regard.
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Heh…the challenge of the hike always makes for a great story and fond reminisces afterwards, but never right at the moment when the pain or fear (or both) takes over. I, too, am in awe of the terrace and road building among those mountains.
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I read a book called, if memory serves me correctly, Calum’s Road about a Scottish guy who read books and built a road hoping to draw more people to the area. It was fascinating. Some of the roads here seem to be still under construction (I think mainly widening) but it can be heart in the mouth time when rumbling near the edge of a mountain.
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Looks like an amazing hike with even more amazing views. It must have been both exhilarating and terrifying to walk across that bridge. Thank you for sharing your adventures.
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That bridge was easy, now day three, that was something else which I will be writing about soon. The mountain views were beautiful, the photo opportunities were endless.
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That bridge – Oh. My. Days! Scary string walkways aside, the trekking looks like it must have been an incredible experience – if a like achy the next day.
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It really was an amazing place to walk and it was wonderfully hot as well. Day two was the real killer, day one just lulled me into the false sense of security.
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I haven’t been on a hike for…45 years. The first day would have killed me 😀
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It was a bit leg stretching, going up, I think we covered 20km the first day as well which I was surprised about.
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😮
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You did it! You walked in the park, in spite of all the OMG moments. Great shots, great adventure, great life!
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I made it but the trials were yet to come. We did fifteen mountains in three days which really was a challenge but a good one to get my teeth into.
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Wow! Stunning views and awesome photographs.
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It was a magnificent place, I am grateful for the talented photographers as well.
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Yeah, the photographers did a great job.
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Your hiking friends obviously believe you needed a baptism of fire!
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Crissy was the one who suggested it and I was all for it, forgetting it was going to be the summer and there I was, struggling around in the mid 30’s, trying to remember what air conditioning felt like.
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Oh no!! Poor you!
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It was one of the hardest hikes about so after that most of the other ones will be a lot easier. My sunburn is now finally getting better which is good news.
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Sunburn is so painful.
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It’s easing off now, excpet for when i carelessly bump into things.
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Ouch! 🙂
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Wow! The photos and your descriptions are amazing! I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything so beautiful! Thanks for sharing this, Steve. I hope you weren’t too sore to continue on the next day.
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I was ready to go the next day, after the usual not wanting to get out of the tent and face the cold, which is a lot warmer than I am used to in the UK, thankfully.
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How coud you not be with all that beauty around you.
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It was that, that eventually drew me out of my pit and it was well worth the view.
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There always seems to be a bit of suffering involved to fully appreciate a good hike! As for getting caught taking a shower, I always sum those moments up by telling myself I will likely not be seeing that person again. Great job Ste J! Looking forward to hearing more.
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Being the only white person around, I had visions of everybody knowing it was me, I couldn’t just blend in with the crowd but it is one of those moments that is always funnier afterwards. I like to think I made her day haha but in reality, probably not. Suffering did indeed become the word of the day!
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Perhaps suffering is an innate need of the human race, as we seem to often put ourselves in situations that result in just that; e.g. hiking up mountains. 🙂
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Showing that we really an insane bunch, when all is said and done.
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Pretty much. 😀
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Mesmerising❤
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Very much so. I look forward to taking more such photos.
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Me too🙂
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